The Ship

The Ship
Picton Castle

Thursday, October 23, 2014

I'm headed to Sea

This will be my last post until I reach Reunion Island, east of Madagascar.  We are weighing anchor on Sunday to sail away from Bali and cross the entire Indian Ocean.  We've been working hard to get the ship ready and to learn the ropes and we're all pretty excited to finally get sailing.  There will be much more to learn once we're under way.  The trip to Reunion is expected to take up to 35 days so it will be a while before I post any more updates.

Bali has been an experience.  It is a place of great contrast, on one hand there are crowded cities and the chaos that goes with that and incredibly beautiful countryside. The people are very friendly and very spiritual but they will take advantage of you in a heartbeat if you're not a strong negotiator.   My biggest disappointment is that it's such a beautiful place but it's covered with litter.  I have seen some amazing places though.

This is the Southern shoreline of Nusa Lembongan island, east of Bali

I'm sure I'll have a few stories to tell after spending 35 days at sea.  So far my longest time at sea has been 5 days doing the Newport to Bermuda race on Lugnuts.  Look for new posts in a month or so. Until then, farewell!


Wednesday, October 22, 2014

A Tour of the Barque

Back in the age of sail a ship was a vessel that had 3 masts and carried square sails on all 3 masts. The Picton Castle is a Barque, which is a vessel that has 3 masts but only has square sails on the Fore Mast (the front mast) and Main Mast (the middle mast) but no square sails on the Mizzen Mast (the back mast).  I still haven't managed to get a good picture of the ship itself, but I will.  I wondered around the other day and took a few pictures on deck so you could get an idea of how much space I'll be living in for the next 7 months.


Here is the bowsprit, the yellow part, and the jib boom, the brown part.  The 2 sections are called the head rig and hold up to four head sails, although only 3 are rigged right now.  The head rig extends about 25 feet from the bow.


This is the fore-castle deck, pronounced foc'sle deck by sailors.  The round red thing in the middle of the deck is the capstan, the only winch on the ship.  It's used to haul fore tacks when trimming the sails or for hauling dock lines tight for the bow.  Behind the capstan is the windless (red and green).  There are 2 handles that attach, sticking out to port and starboard.  5 people on each side pump the windless up and down to weigh the anchor(s).  Each up and down cycle hauls in about 6 inches of anchor chain, which you can see running on both sides of the capstan.  For a bit of scale, each chain link is about 6 inches.  As you can imagine, it takes a lot of work to haul in the anchor.  The windless is, physically, the hardest job on the ship and the captain has ordered that anyone over 50 is not to work the windless because he's afraid we'll have heart attacks...


This one is standing at the edge of the foc'sle deck ladder looking aft.  The fore mast is the large yellow spar on the right and the main and mizzen masts can be seen as you move aft.  This gives some sense of the rigging.  In the lower center are the starboard clothes lines.  They are permanently rigged since we will have to do our laundry on board while we're at sea.



Here we're looking down the port foc'sle ladder at the bottom of the fore mast and the fife rail.  The fife rail holds the belaying pins for about 1/3rd of the lines for the fore mast.  The open hatches behind the mast allow some air and light into the salon, which is below this deck.  This area of the deck is called the well deck.  The wall behind the open hatches is the forward wall of the galley.


Now we're standing to the right of the galley, looking forward toward the fore mast and foc'sle.  The open door leads into the carpenter's shop, which is just a bit bigger than a closet.  There is a berth to the right that the carpenter and cook share and then forward of there is where the professional sailors bunks are.



This one is a shot of the main mast and yards, taken from the foc'sle deck.  The mast is 100 feet tall. I'm not sure if that is measured from the deck or from the water.  The yards are the horizontal spars and they hold the square sails.  The bottom one is the main yard, which holds the main sail.  We have split top sails so the 2nd one up is the lower top'sle yard and the 3rd is the upper top'sle yard, then comes the t'gallant (top gallant) yard and top one is the royal yard.  That one is call the royal because, back in the day, only royal navy ships used that sail.  The sails are all named for the yard from which they hang, hence the upper top'sle yard holds the upper top'sle; however, this doesn't apply to the royal, which is just called the royal, not the royal sail.  I'm not sure why on that one.  The lower 2 yards are fixed at their hight on the mast and we drop the sails from the yards.  The upper 3 yards are raised and lowered on halyards (haul yards).  We drop the sails first and then raise the halyards for those sails.  The bottom 3 yards are steel and the upper 2 are wooden; all are heavy.  You may have noticed that I'm using sailor abbreviations.  That is not to prove how cool I am.  I called the t'gallent the top gallant once and I was laughed at because, I guess, us sailors don't talk like that!  I have loosed and furled sail as high as the t'gallent but I have not been up to the royal yet.


This is a bad picture of the galley but folks were making dinner so I couldn't really ask them to leave.  All 3 of these guys are on my watch and in my division while at anchor.  While on shore our cook has had some time off and so crew has been taking over the cooking quite a bit.  It's been fine but there has been a lot of good natured kidding around about it.  As you can see, the galley is not very big but we have a nice big LP stove with 2 ovens so it's pretty good for cooking for around 50.


Here I am standing at the companionway to the salon, looking aft.  The green area is the cargo hatch and this area of the ship is called midships.  We muster (gather) here whenever the captain or mate want to talk to the crew on board.  The captain says, "Muster midships" then everyone who hears him say that calls out the order and everyone who hears that calls it out, so that everyone gets the order and reports.  This shows a lot more lines along the starboard pin rail, all of which are duplicated on the port side and forward as well.  The ladder goes up to the quarter deck.



This is just below the quarterdeck on the main deck.  This area is called the breezeway and runs down both sides from midships to the stern, or back of the ship.  The room in the center is called the deck house and part of it is 2 stories high.  From midships to the door you see is the chart house and captains quarters.  The door leads to the engine room.


Following the breezeway back we come to the Aloha deck.  This is where dinner is served when the weather is fine.  The water jugs are usually in a holder right about where I was standing when I took this picture but it was being painted.  We scatter all over the ship to eat when the weather is fine but a lot of crew eat here as well.


Lastly on the main deck level is the scullery.  We have a rinse sink outside on the rail so everyone rinses their own dishes in salt water, then we wash our own dishes in soapy fresh water.  Then we rinse in fresh water with a little bleach and then a clean rinse.  When you're assigned to scullery you basically wash the dishes used for food prep and keep the water coolers full and help the cook when needed.  Scullery also sets up the buffets before each meal.


Moving up to the same side of the quarterdeck you can see yet more lines on pin rails.  The closer lines are halyards for the main mast and farther back, unseen are more lines for the mizzen mast.  The door here is to the upper level of the chart room where all of the ships electronics are and where the rough log is kept.  Aft of that is the ships office.  The white barrels are life rafts that will deploy automatically if the ship sinks (don't worry!)  On the far right is our longboat, which we've been using almost every day to work on our rowing teamwork.  I believe my division still holds the speed record for rowing a set course in the harbor.


Turning to the left from where the last picture was taken, we have the bridge deck.  This is off limits and is the captain's alone, unless he invites you.  As is the case with most of the deck house.  Under the white cover are the engine controls for when the ship is running under power.


This was taken with my back against the mizzen mast, looking aft on the quarter deck.  I didn't take a picture of the mizzen mast because it's down rigged at the time this picture was taken.  You can see the spanker boom along the left side.  Everything is out of place as much work was being done.  On my last workday me and 3 others oiled the entire quarterdeck with linseed oil and put everything back where it belongs.  It looks really nice.  The hatches let air into the captains mess forward and the scullery aft.  The silver dome is the binnacle, which holds the ship's compass and then, of course, the wheel.  On the right, under the white cover is the ship's cannon.  It's quite small and, I hear, is never fired.



Administrative stuff

Hi everyone, it has been brought to my attention that many readers have had trouble leaving comments on my posts.  I  believe this was due to a setting on the blog that has now been updated. This blogger thing is new to me but I believe this will open up the comments so that anyone can post comments.

Friday, October 10, 2014

My Ship Has Come In

Picton Castle entering Benoa Harbor, Bali
The picture above was taken from very far away as the ship was motoring into the harbor.  I joined her shortly after and I have been living on board when I'm duty.  We have 46 sailors on board for this leg, which is only 2 people short of a full compliment.  In contrast to the leg they just completed from Fiji to Bali, when they had 25 people on board.  I understand that this upcoming leg is unique in that we have a very high number of experienced tall ship sailors on board.  The full compliment of trainees is 36, we're 2 short so we have 34 but only about 8 are first time trainees, like me.  All the rest are apprentice sailors, who have at least 6 months of previous experience on tall ships.  Some have as much as 24 months of previous experience on Picton Castle.  I think it will be a good thing for us new trainees as there are lots of people to give us pointers and help us learn the ropes.  Since we're in harbor, we've been divided into two watches, Port and Starboard, and each watch is divided into two divisions.  I'm am currently on Starboard watch, division 3.  This helps make it quick and easy to assign work tasks.  The salt water is very hard on the ship and maintenance is extremely important so, while in port, we are cleaning up all of the rust on the ship and repainting the entire thing.  The high temperatures have been around 84 degrees but the humidity is high and, because we're about 8 degrees South of the Equator, the sun is very intense.  Our schedule is setup so we work on ship maintenance in the mornings and then sailing training after lunch, which breaks up the dirty mundane but necessary work with the more fun sail handling training.  We worked for the first 4 days on board and then each watch got a day off.  Now we work 2 days on and get 2 days off, which I think will be the schedule until we leave.  This allows everyone enough time to explore Bali.  When we're on duty we rotate galley (helping the cook), scullery (washing dishes) duty and 1 hour anchor watches at night so they're keeping everyone pretty busy.  I'll try to get a better picture of the ship when she's "ship shape" and ready to sail.  It's amazing how many saying have nautical origins...

My bunk in the salon, lower with the grey pillow.
My bunk is about 6 1/2 feet long and maybe 3 feet high, not quite high enough to sit up in.  It's in the main salon, which is where everyone eats if the weather is bad, which explains the table.  I have a couple of small shelves near the head and then I have a storage area in the bench on the bunk side of the table.  Not much room but enough.  It's comfortable enough as beds go but there isn't much air moving around below deck so it's very hot.  I've been sleeping there but many people sleep on deck at night.  I bought a battery operated fan and brought it with.  It lasted one and half nights and then died. I'm adjusting to the heat and humidity though so it doesn't seem to be a problem.  I'm living bare foot on board and it hurts quite a bit going up into the rigging, which we've done a few times now.  The decks that don't get shade get insanely hot, which my feet have not adjusted to yet, but they will.
All in all, things are going exactly as I expected and I'm having a great time.  I'm afraid it's checkout time so I have to post this and vacate my room.  Next time I'll fill in some details about my crew-mates.



First Impressions of Bali

My first sunset, Kuta beach, Bali
Hello everyone.  I arrived in Bali on September 28, 2014 and the ship arrived on October 2, 2014. Things have been very busy and there has been some adjustment to sorting out limited Internet access and things of that sort.  I'm going to break this post into two parts, this one will be about what I've seen so far of Bali and the other post will be about what life aboard the Picton Castle has been like so far.  This is just first impressions of Bali because I've only been able to see a very small part of the island and I'm not done exploring yet.
The area of Bali that I am familiar with so far is the large metropolitan area north of the Airport.  It's really 4 or 5 cities that are all right up against one another.  I can never tell when I cross from one into the next.  I've been staying in Kuta when I'm not on board.  Kuta is the primary tourist area and has a large beachfront and is crammed with hotels and shopping.  Bali has about every big name chain store, restaurant and fast food joint you can imagine in the cities, and it's crowded.  This is Australia's version of the Caribbean and there are a lot of Aussies as well as many Asian tourists.
They drive on the left and there are millions of scooters.  They only have traffic signs on their most major roads, when you're not on those you're on your own.  No speed limits, no stop signs, no controls of any kind at intersections and the street names, if they're there at all, are very hard to find and there is no uniform, consistent sign.  So getting around on ones own can be a real challenge.  That hasn't stopped me from walking all over though and I'm starting to recognize my way around.  There are streets, similar to our 2 lane streets and then there is a network of what we would call allies.  The allies are narrow and lined on both sides with stalls of people selling stuff.  All of these allies are only wide enough for a small mini van but most all of them allow two way traffic of scooters and cars. The locals are masters on their scooters and they load them up with stuff and people.  One of my crew-mates said he saw a family of 4 riding together on one and the mom was nursing the baby at the time. I've seen 4 teen age girls on one.  Often the small children stand in front of the driver so I imagine they're pretty comfortable with the rules of the road, or the lack thereof,  by the time they're 10 or 12.  Surprisingly the process works much better than one would expect.  There is some beeping on horns but it's always a quick beep, more to say, "here I am" than to say get the hell out of the way.  I'm pretty sure in the US it would be total chaos but somehow it works here.  Crossing the street can be a bit frightening though.  One thing that is pretty cool, along the major roads and at round abouts there are great statues.  Most are cultural and or religious and they can be pretty spectacular.

Detail of the God

A God standing on the backs of horses

A major round about sculpture, about 60 feet long and 20 feet high
Sorry, I didn't write down the name of the God that this statue represents.  Most Balinese are Hindu and they have many Gods.
The people are very nice and friendly.  The vendors can be pretty aggressive and I can't count the times I've been offered Viagra and Cialis...I'm a bit offended by that but, evidently I'm in the target demographic for that stuff.  Bargaining with vendors is expected and I've been taken advantage of several times.  After a few days I had a conversation with an Aussie expat who gave me some good advice and I've been doing better since.  Service at restaurants is pretty slow but the prices are very good, with lunch including a soda easily had for about $6.  My hotel is awesome, with 2 pools, lovely gardens with fountains and statues.  The rooms are simple but they have WiFi, refrigerators, safes, air conditioning and hot breakfast every morning.  My room is in the mid price range for this hotel and it's $25 and change a night.  The staff is great and very friendly.
My goal is to get out of the city the next time I am off duty so I will be able to report more about the "real" Bali.